Another underwhelming Christmas? It’s true, you need the Green Pass to stay in a hotel.
The good news is that Trieste – which just took first place in Italian nwespaper Sole 24 Ore’s annual ranking as the city with the best “Quality of Life 2021” in Italy – remains a quiet place even if it is in the yellow zone. What does this mean? Simply that it is compulsory to wear a mask at all times, both in the street and indoors.
If you come to Trieste at this time of year, you can see Europe’s largest square by the sea with its 24 fir trees in a blaze of lights and Viennese waltzes. Not to mention the colourful Christmas markets that fill the air with Christmas magic.
The Xmas boX is a gift you can give your loved ones for staying with us during the Christmas week, complete with a Christmas gift: a selection of Victoria-branded products.
If, on the other hand, you just want to think about a future without masks and limitations, then we can build your future holidays together by giving a Gift Card to your loved ones.
The Gift Card allows you to freely build your gift with a stay with open dates and the services you would like to include, such as a spa for private use or parking or a dinner.
Among all the walks in and around Trieste, romantic itineraries are definitely those that have more emotions to give away.
The city, it is well known, has a special charm. Part of this charm is due to the sea. Its seafront, towards one of the most poetic and beautiful sunsets in the world, when in the clear days the sky is tinged with a thousand shades of red, is a particularly evocative place.
If among the dreams in the drawer you have “organize romantic holidays in Italy”, then do not miss this guide to the romantic excursions of Trieste.
THE MOLO AUDACE (the Bold Pier 😉
The favorite walk by lovers is in fact on the Molo Audace, the mighty quay which takes its name from the first Italian ship landed in Trieste thus sanctioning the passage of the city to Italy in 1918. The “Molo Audace” remains in the memory above all as a place consecrated with love.
At the beginning of the “Molo Audace”, millions of dates were given. Walk (maybe hand in hand) its 246 meters shows you the way to the Gulf, how to get the bottom of it and feel the real essence of the sea. It makes you feel like you are never alone when you turn and admire “Piazza Unità”,with all the banks and the “Carso” dotted with lights. It is the elegant gateway to an enveloping and spiritual feeling.
THE CASTLE OF MIRAMARE
The second destination full of languid and never-ending romanticism is the walk from Barcola to the Castle of Miramare. As for the other excursions to Trieste, the recommended time is obviously by the sunset. And above all it is wonderful if you want a longer walk.
To the people of Trieste, the Castle of Miramare immediately evokes the tragic story of Maximilian and Charlotte of Hapsburg. Every room, every wall and every piece of furniture tells the dreams of the two young lovers, as well as their sad destiny.
Trieste, just like Verona, has its tragic and passionate love story to tell. Certainly less known, but not less rich of mysterious intrigues.
Massimiliano and Carlotta of Austria, in love and married for their true love, and not only for family designs, choose Trieste as the place to establish their home and have the mythical white turreted castle built. The idyll, however, breaks up when Massimiliano agrees to become the emperor of Mexico, ending up facing an entire country rising against him.
With the end of Massimiliano, also the dream of love with the beautiful Carlotta comes to an end. She who followed him until late in Mexico, had to return to Europe: the situation was now too dangerous. He seemed to foresee the fate of her husband on his return to Miramare: he began to show signs of imbalance. Therefore for some time he was also kept under close observation within the green park of the castle. After the tragic death of her husband, Carlotta only remained to give herself to madness.
In 1867 Massimiliano was captured and shot at only 34 years of age. In the same period of time a lady in the company of Carlotta, Amalia Stöger, was sadly found hanged in a room of the castle with 8 rounds of lace around the neck.
There were Immediately lots of rumors about the mad love of Amalia for Maximilian, and the discovery of some letters sent by him would prove the existence of this triangle love. Even more disturbing was the hypothesis that Amalia was tormented by remorse for giving poison to Carlotta that undermined her reason. There was talk of “poison of the Vaudoux”, a particular drug completely tasteless capable of progressively psyche breaking down. Hence the tragedy of a love spoiled by betrayal and undermined by revenge.
DUINO CASTLE
On the other hand, we can speak of sublime poetry if the Duino Castle, nearby Sistiana, is chosen as a romantic destination. The small village overlooking the sea, the castle gardens meticulously cared for and the view that is enjoyed from the cliff overlooking the castle, are the magical potion of sweet romance.
Not surprisingly, Rainer Maria Rilke, considered one of the greatest German-speaking poets for the lyrical intensity of his compositions, here he began writing the ELEGIE DUINESI, which he dedicated to his beloved princess and celebrated patron Marie von Thurn und Taxis. The castle in fact hosted over time many artists such as Johann Strauss, Franz Liszt, Mark Twain and Gabriele D’Annunzio. Marie was a dazzling beauty that certainly must not have left Rilke indifferent.
Where to spend Valentine’s Day and romantic breaks?
Trieste is certainly a romantic destination suitable for a Valentine’s Day. We at the Literary Hotel have dedicated to Central European Romanticism and to the month of lovers the vey proposal to make it even more magical according to our recipe based on relax, romance and a private spa.
Barcolana, THE SEA AND WIND FESTIVAL on the 5th – 14th of October
TriesteEspresso Expo, THE COFFEE FESTIVAL on the 25th – 27th of October
A city that celebrates its sea and its most typical product, the coffee, in a unique way, you just have to visit.
These events are actually two big city festivals. The Barcolana is the regatta with the most participants in the world and a great sailing festival, which is celebrated for a week by the whole city. This year the Barcolana will be 50 years old and the anniversary celebration will take place from the 5th to the 14th. October, Sunday, when the Gulf of Trieste will offer a breathtaking and unique spectacle with the many sailing boats.
The second big celebration is TriestExpresso Expo (page 9), the espresso fair held from 25-27. October is organized by the world’s most famous espresso maker Illycaffè (page 2). The city of literary cafes, where coffee is more than just a daily ritual and where coffee can be enjoyed in infinitely more ways than in the rest of Italy, celebrates its favorite drink with a three-day coffee culture event in a very special and under-visited location, the Old harbor.
October is also the ideal month for walks and hikes on the karst with the foliage discoloration, which is unique here thanks to the willow bush, because its leaves turn yellow and bright red, so that some sections of the Trieste cliff, the Rilke trail (page 53) or the Napoleonica hiking trail glowing red.
All this you can read in the recently published issue of IES, the bilingual magazine that reports on Trieste, its traditions, its history and timeliness and which you can access online via this link and find them in print format in the rooms of the literary hotel.
We are always happy that everyone who has been our guest will be reminded of the city and given new impressions to come back.
Enjoy reading and a beautiful autumnal shining October for all!
Here is our guide on where to go to the sea in Trieste and nearby. One of the most frequently asked questions in summer is: how and where to take advantage of the sea in Trieste.
As with everything, Trieste reveals its charm in never providing a single answer. In Trieste there are many churches, many communities, many languages and just as many ways of experiencing the sea.
Generally, the first thing we answer is: how much time do you have? This starts from a very Triestine consideration of living by the sea, where it is so much part of people’s daily life, that one free hour is enough to enjoy a regenerating dip and a bit of sun. It is no coincidence that we talk about “going to bathe” instead of going to the beach, as we do it so often.
In the city
One of the classic Trieste beach destinations is Ausonia, located at the bottom of the Rive after the small port of the “Sacchetta”. From Victoria, you can easily reach it with Bus no. 9: Ausonia is in front of the last stop. The area has an internal restaurant with one of the most beautiful open views of the gulf.
Right next to the Ausonia bathing facility you can see the famous bathing area of La Lanterna, also called Pedocin. It is a little unique, in that men and women are still separated in the bathing areas, something that happened in the past.
Last year, the film The Last Beach, which tells the story of La Lanterna, won an award at the Cannes Film Festival.
Barcola and Miramare
If you find yourself near the Castle of Miramare – a must see for those who visit Trieste – you can enjoy the magnificent waters in front of the WWF Marine Reserve if you choose the Sticco bathing facility, on the road leading to the Castle. Or, beyond the Castle, the Grignano 1 – Sirena facility, which can be reached on foot by going down the path that leads to the small port of Grignano. This last establishment is especially recommended for families, as it has two pools and also facilitated access to the sea for the disabled.
As you drive along the road to Miramare, don’t miss the Barcola seafront show – hundreds of young people sunbathing just above the rocks, from the pinewood, along the “Topolini” terraces, to the beaches close to the entrance to the Castle.
Bathing facilities on the coastal road
Beyond the Castle, there are two other bathing facilities that we love to recommend, as they are ideal for a half day of relaxation: Grignano 2 – Riviera and Le Ginestre.
Renowned for its cleanliness and tranquillity, the Riviera, halfway along the coast road, overlooks rather sandy waters; or the Ginestre, still on the coastal road, but 25 minutes from the city centre, is a paradise, nestled between the green of the pines and the depth of the coastal waters.
Natural beaches (not very easy to reach) but near excellent restaurants
Last but not least, you can find natural beaches close to seafood restaurants. On the coast road, the first of these is the Red Tenda Restaurant (clearly visible from the road): the path that starts from there will lead you to the wild Porticciolo di Santa Croce.
Further on the coast road, at the Bellariva Restaurant you can access the free beach ‘Filtri’. The restaurant cannot be seen from the road, but can be reached by going down the cul de sac, Strada Auguste Piccard.
Continuing along the coast road, just past the Galleria Naturale, there is the pebble beach of Canovella de Zoppoli, with its tiny port and a restaurant that serves fresh fish directly from the sea.
Portopiccolo and Sistiana Bay
Portopiccolo is a novelty: a way of experiencing the sea in a luxurious way. Housed in a former Roman quarry, the place is reminiscent of a small Portocervo, with boats and terraces from which to enjoy the sea in an exclusive way, surrounded by every comfort.
It is one of the most beautiful inlets on the coast, framed by the steep rocks of the Costa dei Barbari on one side and the cliffs surrounding the Castello di Duino on the other.
Portopiccolo can be reached just after the town of Sistiana, by descending to the Bay. Once there you can opt for the beaches of Portopiccolo on the left, or go on to the Bay itself, on the right, one of the favourite destinations of Triestini. The Cantera nightclub is very popular in the evenings.
For a detailed description of each beach as well as notes on the traditions of Trieste related to the sea, we recommend reading The Guide to the Best Beaches in the City.
As a literary hotel, however, we recommend the book I MARI DI TRIESTE published by Bompiani, edited by Federica Manzon and with photos by Diego Artioli (124pp, € 17.00) in which the great writers linked to Trieste talk about their personal experiences of the sea in their city. To name a few: Mauro Covacich, Gillo Dorfles, Veit Heinichen, Claudio Magris, Boris Pahor, Pino Roveredo.
In short, you are spoiled for choice. None of these possibilities will leave you disappointed, and you will have the certain knowledge of having lived the sea just as Trieste people do.
From 14 to 17 June 2018 the Bloomsday is celebrated in Trieste. Here’s what the literary hotel in Trieste suggests you not to miss out on the joyciana three days!
From 14 to 17 June Trieste joins the world celebrations in honor of the great Irish writer James Joyce. A three days of shows, special visits, exhibitions and conferences all in the joyciano theme.
Not by chance, Trieste is the city that Joyce defined as “my second homeland” and that hosted it from 1904 to 1920. It is no coincidence that Victoria, the literary hotel of Trieste, was one of the many residences of Trieste the brilliant author Ulysses.
Blooomsday celebrates the fateful day of Leopold Bloom told by Joyce in his titanic masterpiece ULISSE. Every year, June 16th is celebrated that long 16 June 1904. And in Trieste the celebrations will last even the whole weekend.
The seventh chapter of the ULISSE, entitled Eolo, dedicated to the ephemeral wind of fame and set in the headquarters of the Freeman’s Journal in Dublin, at 12.15 on 16 June 1904, serves as the guiding thread for this year’s celebrations.
Even the literary hotel wanted this year to celebrate the great Joyce – which here has a suite dedicated to him – with an installation right in the hotel lobby. Everyone can admire it when entering the hotel.
The program of the celebrations for the Bloomsday Trieste is really wide, for this reason the literary hotel has selected for you some unmissable appointments not to be missed!
Thursday June 14th
The celebrations start on Thursday at 7 pm at the “Grezar” Stadium (entrance on Via Flavia) with the inauguration of the new “mural” dedicated to James Joyce. A great portrait of James Joyce who reinterprets three moments of the ULISSE with a variety of styles that reflects the different writing techniques used by Joyce in the novel.
Friday June 15th
Those who prefer exhibitions will be able to choose Unfolding Ulysses – # 7 Aeolus by Annalisa Metus, which opens at 7 pm in Sala Veruda, Piazza Piccola 2, behind Piazza Unità. All rhetoric. Blisters full of air. Kilometers of unrolled paper. A eulogy of overabundance and inconclusiveness. In any case, the exhibition will remain open every day from 10 to 13 and from 17 to 20 until 15 July. Guided visits by the artist on Friday 22 June and Friday 6 July at 18.00; Tuesday 26 June and Tuesday 10 July at 11.00.
In the evening, instead, the theater returns with Love is Unhappy When Love is Away by Diana Höbel inspired by the James Joyce Chamber Music collection. The exceptional location is the Rotondo Bastion of the Castle of San Giusto (in case of bad weather Auditorium of the Revoltella Museum, via Diaz 27).
Saturday June 16th
In another very precious place that deserves a visit, that is to say at the Sartorio Museum in Largo Papa Giovanni XXIII, at 11.00 the literary biscuits by Maurizio Stagni will be presented, which you will have had the opportunity to taste at the literary hotel. With an addition, not only Joyce, but also Svevo and Saba will be protagonists of this tasting with coffee.
Three for Trio, a concert for clarinet, violin and piano will follow in this poetic setting. Music by Marco Battigelli, Davide Coppola and Giorgio Coslovich, with the Trio Joyce and songs inspired by Joyce’s work.
And after having been entertained by the music, you can watch the screening of the documentary Anjelica Huston on James Joyce: A Shout in the Street by David Blake Knox and Kieron J. Walsh (GB, 2018, 52 min., English version). The film, produced for the BBC, tells the story of James Joyce’s turbulent and surprising literary career, from his poor childhood in Dublin, through his first battles, to the achievement of international fame.
It will be time again to walk in the footsteps of Joyce at 17 with the JJ Walking Tour. Itinerary on foot through the city of Joyce, but this time in English starting from Joyce Passage or from the Curto Bridge, on the side of Via Rossini.
An opportunity to discover the Joyce Museum in the Old Town will be the inauguration of the Greig Stevens exhibition: Odyssey. In the Footsteps of Joyce, at 6 pm in via Madonna del Mare, 13.
Sunday June 17th
In Campo San Giacomo, the grand finale with concert by the Wooden Legs at 8.30 pm, followed by screening of John Houston’s The Dead – Gente di Dublino (USA, 1987, 83 min, English version with Italian subtitles) ).
Trieste is made up of the sea, the city and the Karst, which can each be enjoyed through unique experiences in the surroundings. We have come up with a selection of walks and itineraries. Which one appeals to you?
APERITIF IN A CARSO CAVE: THE SLIVIA TOWERS
Over 100 meters deep, the Slivia Towers cave is one of the most spectacular caves of the Trieste Karst. You will be accompanied on a journey into its depths, arriving in another dimension, where distances lose all meaning.
As it is smaller than the Grotta Gigante, you are able to admire in close-up these ancient calcereous living statues in their continuous formation.
It’s open on Saturdays and Sundays, and from 15 June it will be open every day. You can get there by car or by bus 44 to the stop at the intersection for Slivia. Corrado (338 3515876) and his family will be your guides, and will offer you some local refreshment on their agriturismo farm.
FISHING TRIP WITH LOCAL FISHERMEN (GRIGNANO)
Experience fishing as it has always been done in Trieste, in a local fisherman’s boat off the Miramare Castle. You will see how mussels have been farmed for over 40 years.
The Grand finale is a lunch of Trieste fish on board the boat. You will learn the tricks used to cook excellent mussels and enjoy “Bigoli alle mussels” and the legendary “breaded Sardoni” together with a glass of local wine.
Davide (348 5225281) will welcome you on his fishing boat Laudamar and will reveal everything you need to know about mussel farming.
KARSOLICIOUS: PICNIC WITH LIPIZZANI HORSES (LIPICA)
The Lipizzani stallions were favourite horses of the Austo-Hungarian empire, of which Trieste was long a part. Lipica is located 15 km from Victoria, in Slovenia. It is the oldest horse breeding stable in Europe and the charm of this legendary place lingers on. Visiting the stables or watching shows at the classical riding school is like diving into another time.
We suggest a walk in the huge oak park with a picnic basket full of local products, which can be bought there, or visiting the horse breeding farm.
AN AFTERNOON WITH A FLOCK OF SHEEP (FATTORIA ANTONIČ)
Would you like to help bring a flock to pasture in the Karst? The shepherd of the Fattoria Antonič di Ceroglie will do it with you. Then he will teach you the secrets of milking sheep, with a great tasting finale of the excellent pecorino cheese made with that milk.
To book your afternoon as a Karst shepherd, please phone the Antonič family: 340 5847185.
COFFEE TOUR OF TRIESTE (TRIESTE COFFEE FESTIVAL)
The history of Trieste is intimately linked with coffee, which has been made here for 300 years and shipped all over the world. It is no coincidence that Illy, the prestigious brand, was born in Trieste.
So why not take an urban tour in the name of the history of coffee? Visit the historic cafes, and the museum, to learn about the different blends, the toasting and the many ways to taste it in Trieste. At the end of your trip you’ll understand more about the economy , culture and tradition of the city of coffee.
The journalist Cristina Favento (348 8708060) will be able to guide you in discovering this fundamental element of Triestine culture and economy.
TASTING AND TRAINING IN TORREFAZIONE (TRIESTE COFFEE ASSOCIATION)
If you’d prefer to witness the whole coffee processing cycle, and visit the warehouses and roasting plants at the port, then the tour with Fabrizio is the one for you (fpolojaz@primoaroma.it).
TRADITIONAL CELLARS: LOCAL WINES AND ARTISAN SALAMI
If you are a fan of food and wine, then this is the tour for you. The breeding and processing of pork from which the famous Carstine ham originates, as well as the production of wines from indigenous grapes such as Vitovska, Malvasie and Terrano with their age-old cellars, will be explained, and you can taste them in the company of Matej, of the Bajta Karst farm, (338 672 3705).
THE BEETHOVEN LIBRARY IN MUGGIA, THE LARGEST EUROPEAN PRIVATE COLLECTION
Last but not least is the museum of music that is a gem for lovers of classical music. It is situated in “Venetian” Muggia, a few kilometers from Trieste and reachable by ferry. This is the largest private European collection of Beethoven and the Carrino family (348 580 7227) will welcome you on a delightful tour back in time.
Do you need more information or want to plan one of these experiences? Simply call or write to the hotel and we will help to organize your adventure to coincide with your stay in Trieste.
Do you need help in planning one of these experiences? Just call or email the hotel.
Have you thought about where to spend Easter? Of course, the first concern is what the weather will do. Trieste could be a city to visit at Easter.
Fortunately, the Meteorological Union of Friuli Venezia Giulia on its Facebook page informs us that the Burian II, expected from March 20 with a new wave of frost, is nothing but fake news, or yet another hoax. On their page they write: “We read and hear news in the media and on the web of another wave of frost that could affect Italy in the last days of the month, and even of a cool, rainy summer caused by the atmospheric warming of a few weeks ago. But … THERE IS LITTLE EVIDENCE FOR THIS, AND IN ADDITION IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO PREDICT THE WEATHER THAT FAR IN ADVANCE. We find ourselves denouncing yet more nonsense whose sole objective is to discredit the meteorological profession.” Quoted from meteorologists.
“Anyway, we have the sea!” would be the answer of the Triestinos. The proximity of the sea has a softening effect on the climate, and thanks to the sea currents the weather does not remain the same for long and can change rapidly.
As a result, Trieste is the perfect place for a short vacation. Trieste allows you to have three in one: the sea, the city and the Karst.
THE SEA
If you love the sea, you mustn’t miss the promenade at Barcola that we describe HERE.
But in the city the sea also means the quays, with the glorious Molo Audace next to the largest square in Europe, Piazza Unità d’Italia.
On the quays, at the Salone degli Incanti – Ex Pescheria there is an exhibition of underwater archeology (open from 10 am to 7 pm). Opposite, in the imposing ex Magazzino Vini, you will find Eataly, where sipping an aperitif in front of the huge window onto the sea is an unmissable experience.
THE CITY
What to see and do in the city?
The literary hotel is lucky enough to be located behind the hill which houses the Castle and the Cathedral of San Giusto. The Castle is open on Easter days from 10am to 7pm, with the additional good news that on Sunday, April 1st, as on every first Sunday of the month, it is free. The Alinari Image Museum – an innovative and highly technological museum – is also located at the Bastione Fiorito del Castello where, until April 1st, the exhibition on contemporary Triestine and Slovenian photographers can be visited for just 3 euros.
The unmissable Miramare Castle and its park can also be visited free on Easter Sunday. It is open from 9am to 6.30pm.
At the Museo Revoltella, Trieste’s modern art gallery, there is an exhibition on the early twentieth century in Munich, Vienna, Trieste and Rome. The gallery is open every day from 10am to 7pm, and admission is free, even on April 1st.
A mandatory stop in Trieste is a visit to the Risiera di San Sabba, the only Italian concentration camp and national monument. It is open every day from 9am to 7pm.
Don’t miss a visit to the Castle of Duino, on the cliffs overlooking the sea.
THE CARSO
Trieste also includes the mountainous belt of the Karst, with its spectacular walks. In just 10 minutes you will be on the plateau, where we advise you to experience the typical Osmize, details HERE. You are sure to find San Pelagio and Samatorza open, and there you can eat among the olive trees.
Don’t miss a visit to the Giant Cave, the largest in the world. It is open on Easter Sunday and Monday from 9am to 5pm.
Alternatively, try a walk on the Napoleonic Way, starting from Opicina and ending at the sanctuary of Monte Grisa.
For more information, please ask at the hotel reception, who will provide you with the best tips on how to get there.
EASTER SWEETS
Easter also means sweetness, and Trieste, like most regions, has its own traditional desserts.
At Easter we eat Pinza, a soft and leavened bread, but not overly sweet; perfect with both salami and cheeses and homemade jams. According to tradition, the characteristic cross-cut, which helps the dough to rise, symbolizes the martyrdom of Christ. The shape of the Pinza also brings to mind the vinegar-soaked sponge that the Roman soldiers placed on Jesus’ lips.
The Titola has the shape of a braid, and recalls the nails used for the crucifixion; while a hard-boiled red egg inserted into the mixture reminds us of the stones of Calvary stained by blood dripped from the cross.
The delicious Putizza comes from the Slovenian tradition and is therefore more linked to the Karst area.
Do you want to discover Trieste? Look at our offers!
Spring, as we know, is the happiest time of the year, and Spring in Trieste is certainly one of the most beautiful periods. The light, the warmth, the perfumes and the colours awaken the desire for open-air life, in the city as well as in the gentle heights of the Karst.
The Karst shines with a fresh green and blooms that invite long walks. After a cold winter, sometimes punctuated by the Bora, (the strong wind that is worth facing at least once in a lifetime) the outdoor tables of the many local restaurants return to life.
The Barcola promenade becomes again a destination not only for walks (from Bus number 6 in the Marina to the Castle of Miramare) but also for those eager for their first suntan.
Spring in Trieste is perfect for the romantic and for the lovers of nature. The Miramare Castle Park, with its hundreds of varieties of trees, is a wonderful labyrinth in which to get lost.
The Triestines come out of hibernation and repopulate their beloved Karst, which always hides new surprises even to those who know it well. The most fascinating destination is certainly the Giant Cave, which in 1995 earned its place in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world.
But the least known destination for outsiders are the Osmize, which become a second home at weekends.
The Osmize are wine cellars in private houses where you can taste wines (not only) typical of the Trieste and Slovenian Karst plateau. The wines that are found in these cellars are usually the Vitoska and Malvasia (white) and the Terrano (red). In addition you can taste cheeses, salami, olives, eggs and home-made pickles. The Osmize are a meeting point to spend a few hours with your friends in an extremely convivial atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the Osmize lies in the fact that it exists only in the province of Trieste (continuing partly along the Slovenian coast) and derives from an old tradition dating back to Charlemagne, but set during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which allowed producers of local wine to sell their products directly from their homes for a period of 8 days. It is no coincidence that the word Osmiza comes from osem, which means eight in Slovenian.
Today as then, the Osmize are signposted by a branch on the side of the road that points to it. Nowadays the Osmize are not governed by the traditional eight days; the fun lies in losing oneself in the Karst, without knowing where to go, and in discovering new Osmize to visit.
Some are very special, facing the sea on the ridge overlooking the Gulf: the view goes beyond the horizon and on a clear day you can see the Croatian coast up to Punta Salvore.
Some are surrounded by greenery or in the middle of vineyards or olive groves. A particular pleasure is meeting the real people, the locals: families, groups of young and elderly people who live this ritual with simplicity and the desire to sing and be together typical of these convivial spaces. Nowadays there is a website to find out which Osmizas are open, but our advice is to follow your nose – lose yourself on the plateau in an Osmiza hunt. And your spring in Trieste will be coloured with flavours.
For more refined palates there are some excellent wine cellars that can be visited by appointment. Among the many, we recommend Kante, Zidarich, Lupinc, Bajta, Parovel or Skerk.
Once you arrive in Trieste and at the Victoria Hotel Letterario we will help you find the Osmiza or the wine cellar that suits you – just ask at the front desk.
A distinctive Adriatic experience awaits in this Old World city, with its broad, breezy plazas, coffeehouses and cozy seafood restaurants.
Trieste is famous for its cold, gale-force Bora wind, and indeed, all manner of creatures and people have blown through the seaside city in Italy’s far northeast, next to the Slovenian border. Dinosaurs and Neanderthals once roamed the limestone hills of the Karst region, and legend holds that Jason and the Argonauts sailed in with the Golden Fleece. Empires breezed in, too, notably the Roman and the Byzantine. But it was centuries of Austrian rule that left the most enduring mark. The House of Hapsburg built much of Trieste’s regal core and left a permanent mark on its gastronomy — evinced by the beer, sauerkraut and strudel on many restaurant menus. The winds also brought James Joyce, who lived intermittently in the city in the early 20th century. But Trieste is hardly a gusty relic. A new high-tech photography museum, an expanding night life area and a fancy new nearby marina, Portopiccolo, join the Old World churches, picturesque piazzas, sumptuous palazzo-museums, classic Austrian coffeehouses and cozy seafood restaurants to create a distinctive Adriatic experience.
The Italian port of Trieste bristles with life, has a fascinating history and serves – probably – the finest coffee in the country, according to Helen Pickles. “To discover the secret of a happy life head to Trieste, the Italian port tucked inside the Slovenian border,” she adds. “The Triestini embrace life with a passion that is palpable and infectious, if the chatter at evening aperitivo is anything to go by. And at the merest hint of sunshine, Triestini are off to the nearby seaside, Barcola, even in November, and even though it’s a concrete strip. “This unsquashable humour is no doubt born of being a frontier city, variously owned or occupied by the Romans, Habsburgs, Mussolini’s regime, Germans and Allied Forces, only finally returning to Italy in 1954. The consequence is a glorious jumble of architectural and ethnic influences. In the space of 15 minutes, I came across Serbian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox and Helvetic Evangelist churches, while the city’s synagogue is one of the largest in Europe.”
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